Saturday, May 24, 2003
Thursday
After checking out of my hotel room I drove in a big rectangle so I could see The Strip in Las Vegas. Although it was daytime and I missed the effect of the neon, I did get some idea of the mood of the place. Then I got back on The 15 and headed towards San Diego.
The drive was HOT, HOT, HOT. It entailed crossing the Mojave Desert. The temp was 101 F, possibly higher in some places. There were delays due to road construction. I discovered that indeed my car temperature gauge can move above “normal,” something I’ve never seen it do in 12 years. When it started to creep up, I turned off the AC, so then I was really hot. BabyCar’s glass t-tops function the same way as the glass in a green house. And I was one cooked and wilted rose! I had a bottle of Pepsi which I’d bought on the way out of Las Vegas, icy cold at the beginning of the drive. Partway into the desert I took a swig of it and almost spit it out, it had gotten so hot. I’ve drunk lots of cups of coffee that were cooler. Occasionally I’d spritz some water on my arms to help cool them off, until my water bottle got too hot
Folks have asked for my impressions of Las Vegas. My first impression is of heat rising off the sidewalks and streets. The second is a feeling of pity for the mamy folks who live there who fall prey to gambling addictively. There are slot machines and poker machines everywhere, not just in casinos. It must be a very easy pit to fall into. I went in a grocery store to buy some sundries, and there was a row of video poker machines and slots beyond the cash registers, with women playing them, at 11 a.m. Women who didn’t look like they had much extra money. As I traveled through Las Vegas and the surrounding areas, I realized that I’m pretty much opposed to large-scale legalized gambling. I went in one casino south of Vegas, in search of the Burger King advertised on the large sign in the parking lot—turns out the BK was simply their snack bar. I hurried past all the machines, partly on principle, and partly out of a desire to get out of the cigarette smoke as quickly as possible. Found the restroom (which had been my real objective) and decided to wait til the next stop to get a Coke, rather than linger any longer in the smoke.
After what seemed like a long time of driving through the desert and baking, the road finally entered more temperate climes around San Bernadino, and from there it was an easy drive. In total, it took me about 5-1/2 hrs to drive from Las Vegas to my aunt and uncle’s house in Rancho Bernardo, which is north of San Diego proper. Arrived just after 5 p.m. on Thursday, my westward trek complete.
Saturday
I’m still pondering what were my favorite parts of the trip, and working on editing more photos to post. Particularly I’m trying to articulate to myself what I found so captivating about Utah’s canyon country—what is it that made me fall in love with that region? When I can put it into words I’ll post them here.
After checking out of my hotel room I drove in a big rectangle so I could see The Strip in Las Vegas. Although it was daytime and I missed the effect of the neon, I did get some idea of the mood of the place. Then I got back on The 15 and headed towards San Diego.
The drive was HOT, HOT, HOT. It entailed crossing the Mojave Desert. The temp was 101 F, possibly higher in some places. There were delays due to road construction. I discovered that indeed my car temperature gauge can move above “normal,” something I’ve never seen it do in 12 years. When it started to creep up, I turned off the AC, so then I was really hot. BabyCar’s glass t-tops function the same way as the glass in a green house. And I was one cooked and wilted rose! I had a bottle of Pepsi which I’d bought on the way out of Las Vegas, icy cold at the beginning of the drive. Partway into the desert I took a swig of it and almost spit it out, it had gotten so hot. I’ve drunk lots of cups of coffee that were cooler. Occasionally I’d spritz some water on my arms to help cool them off, until my water bottle got too hot
Folks have asked for my impressions of Las Vegas. My first impression is of heat rising off the sidewalks and streets. The second is a feeling of pity for the mamy folks who live there who fall prey to gambling addictively. There are slot machines and poker machines everywhere, not just in casinos. It must be a very easy pit to fall into. I went in a grocery store to buy some sundries, and there was a row of video poker machines and slots beyond the cash registers, with women playing them, at 11 a.m. Women who didn’t look like they had much extra money. As I traveled through Las Vegas and the surrounding areas, I realized that I’m pretty much opposed to large-scale legalized gambling. I went in one casino south of Vegas, in search of the Burger King advertised on the large sign in the parking lot—turns out the BK was simply their snack bar. I hurried past all the machines, partly on principle, and partly out of a desire to get out of the cigarette smoke as quickly as possible. Found the restroom (which had been my real objective) and decided to wait til the next stop to get a Coke, rather than linger any longer in the smoke.
After what seemed like a long time of driving through the desert and baking, the road finally entered more temperate climes around San Bernadino, and from there it was an easy drive. In total, it took me about 5-1/2 hrs to drive from Las Vegas to my aunt and uncle’s house in Rancho Bernardo, which is north of San Diego proper. Arrived just after 5 p.m. on Thursday, my westward trek complete.
Saturday
I’m still pondering what were my favorite parts of the trip, and working on editing more photos to post. Particularly I’m trying to articulate to myself what I found so captivating about Utah’s canyon country—what is it that made me fall in love with that region? When I can put it into words I’ll post them here.
Thursday, May 22, 2003
Last night I was too exhausted to stir outside my hotel room, and I have to be on the road pretty early today, so I have nothing to report about Las Vegas.
A few more random recollections from Zion NP . . .
There are two sports I just don’t get. (Probably more, but two that came to mind on this trip.)
One is rock climbing. The kind where you inch up a sheer cliff slowly, wedging your feet and hands into crevices. There were rock climbers going up some cliff walls at Zion. It takes 3 days of climbing to get to the top and back. They spend two nights en route, simply hanging from their ropes. Several of us on the shuttle expressed our amazement at this pastime, and the shuttle driver said that one rock climber she’d talked to said, “It’s no crazier than driving on the LA freeways.” I replied, “But they find your body faster on the freeway.”
Another is hard-core semi-professional mountain biking. As I was nursing BabyCar up and down the 10-18% grades in and around Bryce and Zion, there were bikers doing the same thing. The spandex outfits they wear are cool, but I can’t imagine biking that kind of terrain.
A few more random recollections from Zion NP . . .
There are two sports I just don’t get. (Probably more, but two that came to mind on this trip.)
One is rock climbing. The kind where you inch up a sheer cliff slowly, wedging your feet and hands into crevices. There were rock climbers going up some cliff walls at Zion. It takes 3 days of climbing to get to the top and back. They spend two nights en route, simply hanging from their ropes. Several of us on the shuttle expressed our amazement at this pastime, and the shuttle driver said that one rock climber she’d talked to said, “It’s no crazier than driving on the LA freeways.” I replied, “But they find your body faster on the freeway.”
Another is hard-core semi-professional mountain biking. As I was nursing BabyCar up and down the 10-18% grades in and around Bryce and Zion, there were bikers doing the same thing. The spandex outfits they wear are cool, but I can’t imagine biking that kind of terrain.
Wednesday, May 21, 2003
Wednesday
I'll write more tomorrow...gonna crash now....
I'll write more tomorrow...gonna crash now....
Wednesday
This morning started with a yummy 3-egg omelette breakfast at Flanigans. After breakfast I studied my AAA Tour Book for Las Vegas and made lodging reservations for tonight, and then I checked out of my room and hopped the shuttle back into Zion National Park. (I was able to buy a pint glass w/ the Polygamy Porter label design on it, by the way—yay!). The park has a shuttle bus that takes you up the Scenic Canyon Drive; private vehicles are no longer allowed into that part of the park during peak season. I did the full loop, getting off at every stop to gaze at the sights, and doing a few of the “Easy” hikes. Probably walked about 3-4 miles, some of it uphill.
Then returned to my car and drove back into the park. You can still drive through on SR 9 so long as you don’t turn off onto the Scenic Canyon Drive. I did the entire width of the park, and then turned around and came back. On the inbound leg I had to wait just outside the long tunnel for 15 mins or so, as a car had gotten stuck in the tunnel and they had all traffic stopped until the wrecker arrived to pull it out. But there were gorgeous views by where we were stopped so everyone spent the time snapping photos of the scenery.
Decided I needed to also investigate the Kolobs Canyon section of the park, which requires about a 40 min. drive outside the park to reach. It was equally gorgeous and I took yet more photos. I think my digital camera has already largely paid for itself, as I’ve probably taken pics to the equivalent of 15 rolls of film. Figure the cost of the film and developing, and I’m a good part of the way towards the cost of the camera!
Finally pried myself away from Zion at around 6:45 and headed down “The 15” (Californians, at least Southern Californians, preface all freeway numbers with “the”, making freeways into proper nouns), to Las Vegas. An easy, fast drive. And the plunge down into the Virgin River Gorge is very beautiful. Admired a bit of neon as I found my hotel, the Hampton Inn Tropicana.
Random things about the Bryce and Zion region. . . .
I thought I had suddenly been transported to Germany once I arrived at Bryce on Monday. Most of the tourists I saw in both Bryce and Zion were German, speaking animated German (and speaking it very loudly—do they think that because we insular Americans can’t understand them, nor can we hear them, so they can speak as loudly as they want?). Another large percentage were Asian and Pacific Islanders. And a very very few were Americans! One group of Japanese(?) tourists in Bryce had come as part of a chartered bus tour, and they were perched all over the various overlooks w/ their catered lunches—full oriental meals, served hot, on plastic trays divided into various compartments, and all eating with chopsticks.
I have absolutely fallen in love with the Utah canyonlands area. Head over heels in love. I wouldn’t want to live there, but I could visit and stare at the cliffs and ridges and peaks for hours. It was a very contemplative time. Tonight as I drove down the freeway I stopped at a Quiznos for dinner. It was the first time I’d been in a shopping center for over 2 weeks! I’ve been so far away from the urban commercial world I’ve almost felt monastic.
This morning started with a yummy 3-egg omelette breakfast at Flanigans. After breakfast I studied my AAA Tour Book for Las Vegas and made lodging reservations for tonight, and then I checked out of my room and hopped the shuttle back into Zion National Park. (I was able to buy a pint glass w/ the Polygamy Porter label design on it, by the way—yay!
Then returned to my car and drove back into the park. You can still drive through on SR 9 so long as you don’t turn off onto the Scenic Canyon Drive. I did the entire width of the park, and then turned around and came back. On the inbound leg I had to wait just outside the long tunnel for 15 mins or so, as a car had gotten stuck in the tunnel and they had all traffic stopped until the wrecker arrived to pull it out. But there were gorgeous views by where we were stopped so everyone spent the time snapping photos of the scenery.
Decided I needed to also investigate the Kolobs Canyon section of the park, which requires about a 40 min. drive outside the park to reach. It was equally gorgeous and I took yet more photos. I think my digital camera has already largely paid for itself, as I’ve probably taken pics to the equivalent of 15 rolls of film. Figure the cost of the film and developing, and I’m a good part of the way towards the cost of the camera!
Finally pried myself away from Zion at around 6:45 and headed down “The 15” (Californians, at least Southern Californians, preface all freeway numbers with “the”, making freeways into proper nouns), to Las Vegas. An easy, fast drive. And the plunge down into the Virgin River Gorge is very beautiful. Admired a bit of neon as I found my hotel, the Hampton Inn Tropicana.
Random things about the Bryce and Zion region. . . .
I thought I had suddenly been transported to Germany once I arrived at Bryce on Monday. Most of the tourists I saw in both Bryce and Zion were German, speaking animated German (and speaking it very loudly—do they think that because we insular Americans can’t understand them, nor can we hear them, so they can speak as loudly as they want?). Another large percentage were Asian and Pacific Islanders. And a very very few were Americans! One group of Japanese(?) tourists in Bryce had come as part of a chartered bus tour, and they were perched all over the various overlooks w/ their catered lunches—full oriental meals, served hot, on plastic trays divided into various compartments, and all eating with chopsticks.
I have absolutely fallen in love with the Utah canyonlands area. Head over heels in love. I wouldn’t want to live there, but I could visit and stare at the cliffs and ridges and peaks for hours. It was a very contemplative time. Tonight as I drove down the freeway I stopped at a Quiznos for dinner. It was the first time I’d been in a shopping center for over 2 weeks! I’ve been so far away from the urban commercial world I’ve almost felt monastic.
I'm writing this on Monday evening, though I probably won't get to post it until Tuesday or Wednesday. Internet access in southwestern Utah is scarce.
Spent this morning and the early part of this afternoon driving around Capitol Reef NP some more. This is the first time on this trip I've really wished I had an SUV, or hiking boots and a hiking buddy. Paved roadways only scrape the surface of this incredible park. I tried taking BabyCar down one of the unpaved roads, but turned back after just a little bit. She didn't deserve that bone-jarring and suspension-jarring treatment. But even what I could see just from the roads was incredible. It is, IMO, what the Celts call a "thin place," where heaven and earth are especially close. The cliffscapes are spectacular, and the richness and the amazing variety of the shades of red and buff soil, against the blue sky, and the way the ridges plunge at an angle as if they are the prows of shipwrecked vessels-all breathtaking. I probably took 4 dozen photos in the park altogether, and after a while gave up on photos completely--it just needs to be experienced. I did patronize the NPS gift shop heavily, though, figuring the proceeds would help the park, which is obviously low on the funding list. Oddly, even though CRNP is one of the lesser-known parks in the area, and was totally empty last night, today it was crowded w/ RVs and pickup trucks. It was the most crowded as measured by vehicle-per-square-foot-of-overlook-parking-space than was Yellowstone, for example. Partly this is because there aren't nearly as many developed overlooks at Capitol Reef!
Mid-afternoon I bought a sub at the Subway in Torrey (which is a large crossroads w/ a nice assortment of restaurants and shops), and headed off down SR 12 towards Bryce Canyon. The drive is non-stop scenic-paralleling Capitol Reef for the first third of the way, then ducking in and out of Grand Staircase/Escalantes National Monument for the rest of the distance.
Poor BabyCar, without cruise control, and with an accelerator which requires a firm foot for the slightest increase in speed,is not suited for hours of driving up and down 10%-18% grades. She handles beautifully on the curves, but my right ankle and knee are always killing me after about 3-5 hrs of mountain driving. So by the time I arrived here, my leg needed a break; I don't think I'll head into the park tonight.
Tonight I'm staying in Bryce View Inn, which is a very very basic motel. I get the sense Bryce and Zion are the most commercial of the parks down here, and where the locals profit the most from the tourons (tourist+moron=touron). West Yellowstone would have been the same except it was still low season there; here it's high season. No snow down here. (TBTG!)
Off to find some dinner at the tacky complex across the street.
- - - - -
Well, now it's Tuesday night. I still haven't had a chance to post this yet, and won't til tomorrow at the earliest.
I can say most emphatically, if you ever visit the Bryce Canyon area, do NOT stay at either Ruby's Inn Best Western or the Bryce View Inn. They are two related motels that form a huge tourist-trap of a "resort" just outside the entrance to Bryce Canyon. Take the extra time and drive the extra distance, and go in to Cedar City or somewhere with a better selection of lodgings. My time at Bryce was marred by a grotty room, way too expensive ($70) for what it was (basic and dirty), and hideously overpriced and inedible food at the "Cowboy Buffet and Steakroom." I did buy something amusing in the gift shop, though-a shot glass that says, "Eat, drink, and be merry. Tomorrow you might be in Utah."
The park itself was okay. It didn't awe me the way some of the others have-once you've seen a few hundred hoodoos (Bryce's distinctive eroded rock formations) you've seen them all, right? But I imagine it would have been much more impressive if I could have hiked down one of the trails to the canyon floor.
After doing the basic circuit of sights via the park shuttle, I had a nice lunch at the park's Bryce Canyon Lodge. Then I headed out, down to Zion National Park, about a 90-minute drive away. The first part of the drive on Rtes 12 and 89 is almost as scenic as w/in Bryce itself. Hoodoos flank the highway.
I arrived at Zion NP around 4:30. Entered at the north entrance near Carmel Junction and drove through the park towards Springdale. Even the quick views I got just driving through were extremely impressive. Beautiful cliffs and canyons. I can't wait to go back in tomorrow. About 2/3 of the way through on the main road is a mile-long tunnel, built in the 1920s, which is incredibly long, narrow, and dark. Unlike modern tunnels, there is NO artificial interior lighting--none. Talk about dark! Every so often they've cut a "window" through the outside wall, and you get a brief glimpse of the canyon and a bit of light, but mostly it's pitch-dark.
In Springdale, I checked into Flanigan's Inn, which is as wonderful an establishment as last night's was awful. I highly recommend it if you visit Zion. I have a two-room suite with a lovely view of Zion's cliffs out of two picture windows, and a picnic table on a patio, and all kinds of neat bath goodies, all for $89. Right on the park shuttle route, and w/in walking distance to the park if you have a mind to get some exercise. Had a delicious dinner at the attached restaurant, the "Spotted Dog Café at Flanigans".
The local microbrews aren't bad. One is called "Polygamy Porter." The label says, "Why stop with just one?" and "Take some home to the wives." I'm going to see if I can buy one of their pint glasses. It would go nicely with the shot glass I bought last night. I could have a whole "Utah humor" subsection in my barware! Dinner was lamb shank with assorted yummy veggies, and then a peach-raspberry cobbler and coffee for dessert. The entrée cost no more than the hideous buffet last night. Now I'm sitting here typing this while watching one of the 2 (two) tv's in my suite.
Spent this morning and the early part of this afternoon driving around Capitol Reef NP some more. This is the first time on this trip I've really wished I had an SUV, or hiking boots and a hiking buddy. Paved roadways only scrape the surface of this incredible park. I tried taking BabyCar down one of the unpaved roads, but turned back after just a little bit. She didn't deserve that bone-jarring and suspension-jarring treatment. But even what I could see just from the roads was incredible. It is, IMO, what the Celts call a "thin place," where heaven and earth are especially close. The cliffscapes are spectacular, and the richness and the amazing variety of the shades of red and buff soil, against the blue sky, and the way the ridges plunge at an angle as if they are the prows of shipwrecked vessels-all breathtaking. I probably took 4 dozen photos in the park altogether, and after a while gave up on photos completely--it just needs to be experienced. I did patronize the NPS gift shop heavily, though, figuring the proceeds would help the park, which is obviously low on the funding list. Oddly, even though CRNP is one of the lesser-known parks in the area, and was totally empty last night, today it was crowded w/ RVs and pickup trucks. It was the most crowded as measured by vehicle-per-square-foot-of-overlook-parking-space than was Yellowstone, for example. Partly this is because there aren't nearly as many developed overlooks at Capitol Reef!
Mid-afternoon I bought a sub at the Subway in Torrey (which is a large crossroads w/ a nice assortment of restaurants and shops), and headed off down SR 12 towards Bryce Canyon. The drive is non-stop scenic-paralleling Capitol Reef for the first third of the way, then ducking in and out of Grand Staircase/Escalantes National Monument for the rest of the distance.
Poor BabyCar, without cruise control, and with an accelerator which requires a firm foot for the slightest increase in speed,is not suited for hours of driving up and down 10%-18% grades. She handles beautifully on the curves, but my right ankle and knee are always killing me after about 3-5 hrs of mountain driving. So by the time I arrived here, my leg needed a break; I don't think I'll head into the park tonight.
Tonight I'm staying in Bryce View Inn, which is a very very basic motel. I get the sense Bryce and Zion are the most commercial of the parks down here, and where the locals profit the most from the tourons (tourist+moron=touron). West Yellowstone would have been the same except it was still low season there; here it's high season. No snow down here. (TBTG!)
Off to find some dinner at the tacky complex across the street.
- - - - -
Well, now it's Tuesday night. I still haven't had a chance to post this yet, and won't til tomorrow at the earliest.
I can say most emphatically, if you ever visit the Bryce Canyon area, do NOT stay at either Ruby's Inn Best Western or the Bryce View Inn. They are two related motels that form a huge tourist-trap of a "resort" just outside the entrance to Bryce Canyon. Take the extra time and drive the extra distance, and go in to Cedar City or somewhere with a better selection of lodgings. My time at Bryce was marred by a grotty room, way too expensive ($70) for what it was (basic and dirty), and hideously overpriced and inedible food at the "Cowboy Buffet and Steakroom." I did buy something amusing in the gift shop, though-a shot glass that says, "Eat, drink, and be merry. Tomorrow you might be in Utah."
The park itself was okay. It didn't awe me the way some of the others have-once you've seen a few hundred hoodoos (Bryce's distinctive eroded rock formations) you've seen them all, right?
After doing the basic circuit of sights via the park shuttle, I had a nice lunch at the park's Bryce Canyon Lodge. Then I headed out, down to Zion National Park, about a 90-minute drive away. The first part of the drive on Rtes 12 and 89 is almost as scenic as w/in Bryce itself. Hoodoos flank the highway.
I arrived at Zion NP around 4:30. Entered at the north entrance near Carmel Junction and drove through the park towards Springdale. Even the quick views I got just driving through were extremely impressive. Beautiful cliffs and canyons. I can't wait to go back in tomorrow. About 2/3 of the way through on the main road is a mile-long tunnel, built in the 1920s, which is incredibly long, narrow, and dark. Unlike modern tunnels, there is NO artificial interior lighting--none. Talk about dark! Every so often they've cut a "window" through the outside wall, and you get a brief glimpse of the canyon and a bit of light, but mostly it's pitch-dark.
In Springdale, I checked into Flanigan's Inn, which is as wonderful an establishment as last night's was awful. I highly recommend it if you visit Zion. I have a two-room suite with a lovely view of Zion's cliffs out of two picture windows, and a picnic table on a patio, and all kinds of neat bath goodies, all for $89. Right on the park shuttle route, and w/in walking distance to the park if you have a mind to get some exercise. Had a delicious dinner at the attached restaurant, the "Spotted Dog Café at Flanigans".
The local microbrews aren't bad. One is called "Polygamy Porter." The label says, "Why stop with just one?" and "Take some home to the wives." I'm going to see if I can buy one of their pint glasses. It would go nicely with the shot glass I bought last night. I could have a whole "Utah humor" subsection in my barware! Dinner was lamb shank with assorted yummy veggies, and then a peach-raspberry cobbler and coffee for dessert. The entrée cost no more than the hideous buffet last night. Now I'm sitting here typing this while watching one of the 2 (two) tv's in my suite.
Sunday, May 18, 2003
Today was a day of lows and highs.
The low was the service at St Mark’s Episcopal Cathedral, Salt Lake City. Let’s just say that Calvary, Rochester,’s liturgy has spoiled me. To say any more in this public forum would be uncharitable. But I left the church service in a snit. Which had probably as much to do w/ my own current baggage (the metaphorical kind, not the kind stuffed in my car!) about the church and Christian education and children’s ministries as it was to do w/ the service.
The high was spending about 2 hours this evening driving through Capitol Reef National Park, which I experienced as a mystical place. My experience was surely enhanced by picture-perfect weather and warm evening light. After drinking in as much of the sights as I could, I had a lovely dinner at a nearby restaurant which overlooks the park.
I’m staying at the Days Inn in Torrey, UT. I’ll spend more time at Capitol Reef tomorrow and then drive down to Bryce Canyon National Park, which is a bit southwest of here.
The low was the service at St Mark’s Episcopal Cathedral, Salt Lake City. Let’s just say that Calvary, Rochester,’s liturgy has spoiled me. To say any more in this public forum would be uncharitable. But I left the church service in a snit. Which had probably as much to do w/ my own current baggage (the metaphorical kind, not the kind stuffed in my car!) about the church and Christian education and children’s ministries as it was to do w/ the service.
The high was spending about 2 hours this evening driving through Capitol Reef National Park, which I experienced as a mystical place. My experience was surely enhanced by picture-perfect weather and warm evening light. After drinking in as much of the sights as I could, I had a lovely dinner at a nearby restaurant which overlooks the park.
I’m staying at the Days Inn in Torrey, UT. I’ll spend more time at Capitol Reef tomorrow and then drive down to Bryce Canyon National Park, which is a bit southwest of here.
Saturday, May 17, 2003
Oh....something I forgot to mention about Jackson Hole. This morning I passed on the opportunity to participate in what is surely a distinctive community event: the annual elk antler auction! The National Elk Refuge is just a few miles north of town. Here is a very informative article about the auction:
http://www.jacksonholenet.com/stories/antlrauc.htm
According to a fellow at the hotel who caught the beginning of this morning's auctioneering, small lots of antlers were going for $8.50/lb, with a lot maybe weighing 30 lbs.
Just shows the regional diversity of this country. Back East, youth groups sold citrus and subs. In Wyoming, it's elk antlers....
http://www.jacksonholenet.com/stories/antlrauc.htm
According to a fellow at the hotel who caught the beginning of this morning's auctioneering, small lots of antlers were going for $8.50/lb, with a lot maybe weighing 30 lbs.
Just shows the regional diversity of this country. Back East, youth groups sold citrus and subs. In Wyoming, it's elk antlers....
I indeed spent Friday in Grand Tetons National Park, driving from turnout to turnout, in total awe. I can’t begin to describe the beauty. I’ve always said I’m “not a mountains person,” and I’m not—I’d never want to live in the mountains. But I was taken enough by the Tetons to catch myself fantasizing about honeymooning in one of their fancy lodges. (No, you haven’t missed a major development—there is no Significant Man with Future Potential in my life—but that doesn’t need to stop a girl from dreaming, right?!?)
Bought some picnic food at the store in Moose and ate it next to a river. Tromped through some snow trying to find a designated picnic area; gave up when the snow depth reached my knees and made my own spot in a sunnier area.
Spent some time just sitting next to Jenny Lake, enjoying the combination of water and mountain views. I think moving to San Diego, where I’ll be very near the water, is a good thing. God seems so much more accessible when I’m near a large body of water.
Visited the Episcopal Chapel of the Transfiguration, where the altar looks out over the mountain range. While I was there saw another tourist who looked amazingly like Mary Chapin Carpenter, my favorite singer. I have no idea if it was really her, nor any way of finding out, but I’m going to pretend it was. J The Jackson Hole area is noted as a popular vacation spot for the rich and famous, after all.
Spent part of the afternoon looking for moose, but saw none. Did see lots of elk. Shopped in the Signal Mountain park gift shop, which must be one of the poshest NPS gift shops around, in keeping w/ the generally upscale clientele in the region.
Returned to Jackson Hole and walked around the downtown area again. Ate another good meal at the Chili Pepper Grill, which I found to have very good Mexican food at very reasonable prices, and to be neither rowdy nor pretentious, a failing of many other restaurants in town. Then spent the rest of the evening uploading pics to my YahooPhotos album:
http://photos.yahoo.com/esoterica1693
Spent Saturday morning doing laundry, and then headed out of Jackson Hole towards Salt Lake City at midday. It ended up being close to a 7-hour drive, on some of the most rural roads I’ve covered so far. Lots of nice views. Checked into the Howard Johnson Express Inn in the heart of SLC at around 7, and then poked around looking for dinner. Ate yet more Mexican (this is good preparation for living in San Diego, right?) at the Rio Grande Café downtown in the old RR station.
I’ll be getting up early enough tomorrow to make my way to St Mark’s Episcopal Cathedral for church.
Bought some picnic food at the store in Moose and ate it next to a river. Tromped through some snow trying to find a designated picnic area; gave up when the snow depth reached my knees and made my own spot in a sunnier area.
Spent some time just sitting next to Jenny Lake, enjoying the combination of water and mountain views. I think moving to San Diego, where I’ll be very near the water, is a good thing. God seems so much more accessible when I’m near a large body of water.
Visited the Episcopal Chapel of the Transfiguration, where the altar looks out over the mountain range. While I was there saw another tourist who looked amazingly like Mary Chapin Carpenter, my favorite singer. I have no idea if it was really her, nor any way of finding out, but I’m going to pretend it was. J The Jackson Hole area is noted as a popular vacation spot for the rich and famous, after all.
Spent part of the afternoon looking for moose, but saw none. Did see lots of elk. Shopped in the Signal Mountain park gift shop, which must be one of the poshest NPS gift shops around, in keeping w/ the generally upscale clientele in the region.
Returned to Jackson Hole and walked around the downtown area again. Ate another good meal at the Chili Pepper Grill, which I found to have very good Mexican food at very reasonable prices, and to be neither rowdy nor pretentious, a failing of many other restaurants in town. Then spent the rest of the evening uploading pics to my YahooPhotos album:
http://photos.yahoo.com/esoterica1693
Spent Saturday morning doing laundry, and then headed out of Jackson Hole towards Salt Lake City at midday. It ended up being close to a 7-hour drive, on some of the most rural roads I’ve covered so far. Lots of nice views. Checked into the Howard Johnson Express Inn in the heart of SLC at around 7, and then poked around looking for dinner. Ate yet more Mexican (this is good preparation for living in San Diego, right?) at the Rio Grande Café downtown in the old RR station.
I’ll be getting up early enough tomorrow to make my way to St Mark’s Episcopal Cathedral for church.
Thursday, May 15, 2003
Well, the weather forecast was basically right. The drive through Yellowstone and Grand Teton was grey and cloudy for the most part, with intermittent showers. I drove straight down to Jackson Hole, b/c the weather wasn’t good for sightseeing in Grand Teton. For about half the distance it was too cloudy to even see the mountains, which is saying something, because they’re very large and close! Plus, to be honest, I was about “wildlife and scenery’d” out, and needed a taste of civilization! Checked in to the Quality Inn “49ers Inn and Suites” just a few blocks off the town square, and then went wandering around the pricey downtown shopping district. Aside from the ghoulish (IMO) arches made of elk antlers which adorn all four corners of the central square, Jackson Hole is a very nice town. If I’d just won the lottery I could have had a field day buying lovely things. As I haven’t been so lucky, however, I restrained myself. But it was good to be in a bit of culture, even if it was aimed at high-end tourists. It was good to be in a town with an independent bookstore, and where several of the shops had NPR playing on their sound systems.
Tomorrow I’ll head back up to the Grand Tetons National Park, and simply stare at the awesome scenery.
Tomorrow I’ll head back up to the Grand Tetons National Park, and simply stare at the awesome scenery.
Wednesday, May 14, 2003
Another gorgeous sunny day. Today I did the Canyon and Mammoth sections of the Park. Probably drove 130 miles, in 7 hrs. Took tons of photos of amazing waterfalls. It was also a good day for wildlife. Saw the head of a bald eagle poking out of its nest, and a bear, and a coyote. Also some osprey, though to someone who grew up seeing them nesting on every navigational marker in the Chesapeake, that’s no big deal. However, these nests took a bit more work—they were perched on rock spires in a deep canyon!
The weather is supposed to go grey and wet again tomorrow; hopefully the forecast is wrong. I’ll be heading down to Grand Teton NP.
The weather is supposed to go grey and wet again tomorrow; hopefully the forecast is wrong. I’ll be heading down to Grand Teton NP.
Tuesday, May 13, 2003
Now that I’ve sort of figured out how this blog program works, I need to go back and tell you what I’ve been up to since leaving Rochester.
I pulled out of “Mayotown” about 7 p.m. on Thursday, May 8th and drove west on I-90 to Fairmont, MN, where I stayed in a Super8. Nothing scenic en route, though I did see my first Wall Drug billboard. And I admired the chutzpah in the SPAM Museum billboards. Weather was raining, very grey, with periodic lightning. But at least no tornadoes!
On Friday the 9th I drove from Fairmont, MN to Kadoka, SD—another Super8. No major sights in between. Except LOTS of Wall Drug billboards, and of course the one-of-a-kind Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD. A big civic auditorium, the outside of which is decorated in corn cobs and corn silk. You can see a pic at my Yahoo photos page, in the Westward, Ho! album:
http://photos.yahoo.com/esoterica1693
Weather was overcast and showery.
Saturday morning I headed out from Kadoka to the South Dakota Badlands. Quite awesome. The sky was still overcast, so my pic doesn’t do the colors any justice. From the Badlands I headed to Rapid City, SD, and then down towards Mount Rushmore and the other Black Hills sights.
Mount Rushmore looked just like all the photos of it you’ve seen elsewhere. Big and granite and presidential. J Took the scenic route from Rushmore down to Custer State Park. Saw my first bison there. And some sheep and prairie dogs and burros. I really liked that park.
Then headed to the town of Custer, and the Crazy Horse Monument. Intended to be a memorial to all Native Americans, it will, if and when it’s ever finished, be the largest sculpture in the world. Carved from a mountain, like the Rushmore memorial, only much bigger (which is sort of the point :-), it will show Crazy Horse on horseback, gesturing out over all the surrounding lands. When asked by a white man “where his lands were,” he is said to have replied, with a broad sweep of his arm—“my land is where the graves of my people are.” They have a huge gift shop where they sell authentic Native American crafts to raise funds to continue the sculpting. I bought myself a genuine Native American Talking Stick. I could have used it during the past 5 years of chairing innumerable meetings and leading youth group discussions. I’m sure I will have more opportunities to use it in the future…..
From there I headed up what looked on the map to be a straightforward route from Custer to Spearfish. It turned out to be anything but, as the Hwy Dept detoured the road onto a mud and gravel track up and over a mountain, and it started snowing very heavily, and got dark very fast. Thank goodness living in MN taught me something about driving in and on snow, else I would have wrapped myself around a tree or plunged off a mountain switchback. What a nerve-wracking, prayer-inducing drive! Once we were back on a “real” road I stopped at the first motel I found—which put me in Deadwood SD at a Best Western. Deadwood has little to recommend it unless you’re a gambling nut.
Sunday I drove from Deadwood up to Devils Tower, Wyoming, where I took a short hike and some pics but had no Close Encounters of the Third (or any other) Kind. I did, however, read Morning Prayer while staring up at the Tower. From there I continued on across most of Wyoming. The “High Plains,” with their cattle and horse ranches and oil wells, gave way eventually to the stunning Bighorn Mountain range, which I crossed on US 16. Absolutely breathtaking scenery for miles and miles. And enough of a climb (up to around 9,000 ft) that my car definitely felt it! I had no idea there was such variety and such beauty in Wyoming.
After coming out of the mountains it was across some semi-arid and near-desert areas before arriving in Cody, WY for the evening. Had a fabulous meal at Las Comidas Mexican restaurant on the main strip in Cody. I recommend the Alamos Quesadillas!
I spent the first part of Monday at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, which is actually a first-rate museum of art of the American West, and its geography, and also the life and culture and challenges of the Plains Indians. The Plains Indians exhibits were much more informative than those at the Crazy Horse Memorial exhibit complex. I heartily recommend the Buffalo Bill Historical Center to anyone passing through Cody, even if you know or care little about Buffalo Bill Cody himself. I zipped through the gallery devoted to him, but lingered in the others.
After Cody it was through the beautiful Shoshone Valley, and then into Yellowstone National Park. The weather turned even grayer and wetter, and by the time I’d made my way across Yellowstone I was getting depressed. I’d seen enough snow and felt enough cold wet wind; I think the sun had been out for all of 5 minutes since I left Rochester. I settled in at the Days Inn in the town of West Yellowstone. West Yellowstone has cheap motels, and not much else. Most of the town is closed b/c it’s still “off season”—visitors don’t come to the Park in any numbers at this time of the year. Decided to be adventurous at dinner and had buffalo roast. Tasted basically like roast beef. Maybe a bit stronger, but not much.
Which brings me up to today, Tuesday the 13th. Spent today tooling around the various geyser basins in Yellowstone. Praise God, the SUN finally came out and it was a beautiful day. Saw lots of neat sights. The highlight was of course Old Faithful, but West Thumb had lots of interesting things too. Got some gorgeous views of the Tetons in the distance across Lake Yellowstone. And I spent some time just standing staring at rushing rivers and getting into a more relaxed rhythm. Finished off the day with a dinner of pan-fried rainbow trout at a local restaurant in West Yellowstone.
Tomorrow it’s up to the northern sections of the park.
As I have time to edit and upload pictures, I'm putting them at the yahoo site referenced above. About 5 there now, more to come.
GRB
I pulled out of “Mayotown” about 7 p.m. on Thursday, May 8th and drove west on I-90 to Fairmont, MN, where I stayed in a Super8. Nothing scenic en route, though I did see my first Wall Drug billboard. And I admired the chutzpah in the SPAM Museum billboards. Weather was raining, very grey, with periodic lightning. But at least no tornadoes!
On Friday the 9th I drove from Fairmont, MN to Kadoka, SD—another Super8. No major sights in between. Except LOTS of Wall Drug billboards, and of course the one-of-a-kind Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD. A big civic auditorium, the outside of which is decorated in corn cobs and corn silk. You can see a pic at my Yahoo photos page, in the Westward, Ho! album:
http://photos.yahoo.com/esoterica1693
Weather was overcast and showery.
Saturday morning I headed out from Kadoka to the South Dakota Badlands. Quite awesome. The sky was still overcast, so my pic doesn’t do the colors any justice. From the Badlands I headed to Rapid City, SD, and then down towards Mount Rushmore and the other Black Hills sights.
Mount Rushmore looked just like all the photos of it you’ve seen elsewhere. Big and granite and presidential. J Took the scenic route from Rushmore down to Custer State Park. Saw my first bison there. And some sheep and prairie dogs and burros. I really liked that park.
Then headed to the town of Custer, and the Crazy Horse Monument. Intended to be a memorial to all Native Americans, it will, if and when it’s ever finished, be the largest sculpture in the world. Carved from a mountain, like the Rushmore memorial, only much bigger (which is sort of the point :-), it will show Crazy Horse on horseback, gesturing out over all the surrounding lands. When asked by a white man “where his lands were,” he is said to have replied, with a broad sweep of his arm—“my land is where the graves of my people are.” They have a huge gift shop where they sell authentic Native American crafts to raise funds to continue the sculpting. I bought myself a genuine Native American Talking Stick. I could have used it during the past 5 years of chairing innumerable meetings and leading youth group discussions. I’m sure I will have more opportunities to use it in the future…..
From there I headed up what looked on the map to be a straightforward route from Custer to Spearfish. It turned out to be anything but, as the Hwy Dept detoured the road onto a mud and gravel track up and over a mountain, and it started snowing very heavily, and got dark very fast. Thank goodness living in MN taught me something about driving in and on snow, else I would have wrapped myself around a tree or plunged off a mountain switchback. What a nerve-wracking, prayer-inducing drive! Once we were back on a “real” road I stopped at the first motel I found—which put me in Deadwood SD at a Best Western. Deadwood has little to recommend it unless you’re a gambling nut.
Sunday I drove from Deadwood up to Devils Tower, Wyoming, where I took a short hike and some pics but had no Close Encounters of the Third (or any other) Kind. I did, however, read Morning Prayer while staring up at the Tower. From there I continued on across most of Wyoming. The “High Plains,” with their cattle and horse ranches and oil wells, gave way eventually to the stunning Bighorn Mountain range, which I crossed on US 16. Absolutely breathtaking scenery for miles and miles. And enough of a climb (up to around 9,000 ft) that my car definitely felt it! I had no idea there was such variety and such beauty in Wyoming.
After coming out of the mountains it was across some semi-arid and near-desert areas before arriving in Cody, WY for the evening. Had a fabulous meal at Las Comidas Mexican restaurant on the main strip in Cody. I recommend the Alamos Quesadillas!
I spent the first part of Monday at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, which is actually a first-rate museum of art of the American West, and its geography, and also the life and culture and challenges of the Plains Indians. The Plains Indians exhibits were much more informative than those at the Crazy Horse Memorial exhibit complex. I heartily recommend the Buffalo Bill Historical Center to anyone passing through Cody, even if you know or care little about Buffalo Bill Cody himself. I zipped through the gallery devoted to him, but lingered in the others.
After Cody it was through the beautiful Shoshone Valley, and then into Yellowstone National Park. The weather turned even grayer and wetter, and by the time I’d made my way across Yellowstone I was getting depressed. I’d seen enough snow and felt enough cold wet wind; I think the sun had been out for all of 5 minutes since I left Rochester. I settled in at the Days Inn in the town of West Yellowstone. West Yellowstone has cheap motels, and not much else. Most of the town is closed b/c it’s still “off season”—visitors don’t come to the Park in any numbers at this time of the year. Decided to be adventurous at dinner and had buffalo roast. Tasted basically like roast beef. Maybe a bit stronger, but not much.
Which brings me up to today, Tuesday the 13th. Spent today tooling around the various geyser basins in Yellowstone. Praise God, the SUN finally came out and it was a beautiful day. Saw lots of neat sights. The highlight was of course Old Faithful, but West Thumb had lots of interesting things too. Got some gorgeous views of the Tetons in the distance across Lake Yellowstone. And I spent some time just standing staring at rushing rivers and getting into a more relaxed rhythm. Finished off the day with a dinner of pan-fried rainbow trout at a local restaurant in West Yellowstone.
Tomorrow it’s up to the northern sections of the park.
As I have time to edit and upload pictures, I'm putting them at the yahoo site referenced above. About 5 there now, more to come.
GRB
Monday, May 12, 2003
I am currently in Cody, WY, about to head out into Yellowstone. Will actually post to this blog regularly in a few days, when I'm back w/in reach of local internet access via Earthlink.
Highlights so far have been the Badlands; Custer State Park wildlife loop, and the Bighorn Mountains. Am taking lots of pics.
BabyCar is doing great. Sat night she got me through a nasty sudden snowstorm high up in the Black Hills where the Hwy Dept had detoured the paved road onto several miles of dirt road. I needed and used all living in MN taught me about driving in snow as I snaked up and down S-curves along the edge of a mtn and bounced into and out of bone-jarring potholes hidden beneath the snow. Thought I was going to damage her for sure on that evening, but she got me through when the only other vehicles I saw on the road were 4x4s.
Trip so far has been awesome. Will write more later, in a few days when I'm again in a town w/ local internet access. But today, checkout time looms!
GRB
Highlights so far have been the Badlands; Custer State Park wildlife loop, and the Bighorn Mountains. Am taking lots of pics.
BabyCar is doing great. Sat night she got me through a nasty sudden snowstorm high up in the Black Hills where the Hwy Dept had detoured the paved road onto several miles of dirt road. I needed and used all living in MN taught me about driving in snow as I snaked up and down S-curves along the edge of a mtn and bounced into and out of bone-jarring potholes hidden beneath the snow. Thought I was going to damage her for sure on that evening, but she got me through when the only other vehicles I saw on the road were 4x4s.
Trip so far has been awesome. Will write more later, in a few days when I'm again in a town w/ local internet access. But today, checkout time looms!
GRB
testing to see if this works from MSIE
